In honor of my mom’s 70th birthday, I thought we should do a 70 day trip, you know, one day for each year of her life, but spending 70 days dwelling on getting older wasn’t appealing to her, plus my T.A. “H” and I had to start school in September, so we decided on an 18 day trip instead. Like I told mom, “you can just pretend you’re turning 18” – I’ve been doing that for the past 22 years. This epic trip would take us from our home city of Seattle through Olympic National Park before returning to Seattle to board Holland America’s Ms. Zaandam the next day for a 14-day cruise through Alaska.
My mom must have read me “Mountain Interval,” Frosts third poetic volume while I was kicking around and giving her indigestion, because I popped out with a fist in the air, a love for the mountains, and immediately started crawling toward the road less traveled. And I’ve been hacking away at underbrush and forging my own path ever since.
So on our four day trip to Olympic National Park, we didn’t take the most common counterclockwise route from Seattle, starting out on the Bainbridge Island Ferry toward Port Angeles, looping up and around to the west and ending up on the Washington coast. Our first stop was the airport to pick up my mom, “HAPPY 70!,” where we would continue along I-5 S until eventually linking up with US 101 N and, 2 hours and 35 minutes later, arriving at Lake Quinault where we would stay for our first night.
There are several hotels and campgrounds near Lake Quinault, but for a rustic and cozy Olympic National Park experience, I’d recommend the historic Lake Quinault Lodge.
The lodge offers beach access, canoes for rent, an indoor pool, a game room, free wifi in public areas, free parking, and a restaurant. And views that can’t be beat! Book early, because the lodge fills up fast.
S Shore Rd, Quinault, WA 98575
$5 per vehicle parking fee (or free with a Northwest Forest Pass)
This half mile loop trail, a short drive from the Lake Quinault lodge, is perfect for kids or those who start huffing and puffing after the first two mossy trees: “this is pretty, but I need to find a stump to rest on.” Leave Prof. Cruise behind while you continue on through the old growth temperate rain forest and along the Willaby Creek. You’ll learn about forest ecology through interpretive signs Prof. Cruise will use as another excuse to rest, “what, I’m a slow reader!” and will enjoy an overlook offering stunning views of the Willaby Gorge.
The loop trail connects to a larger trail system if you’re looking for a longer hike. Grab a map from the ranger station.
After waving goodbye to Lake Quinault and wondering, “how can anything possibly top that?” we headed for our first stop along the Washington coast, Ruby Beach, a 45 minute drive from the Quinault area.
After parking your car in the lot, set out on the short downhill trail to the beach. It’s steepish, so consider a hiking stick if you have balance challenges. Half way down the trail is an overlook offering a glimpse of what you’re in for. Don’t turn back now, it gets even better!
Directly at the bottom of the trail you’ll find the ultimate “nature’s playground.” Hundreds of giant driftwood logs make for an awesome game of hide and seek and caves you can coax your mom into only to abandon her for the tide pools when she gets stuck. And that was before our cruise – imagine the Crisco it would take to free me after 14 days of, “I’ll take two of everything” when asked what I’d like for dessert in the MDR.
Although it may be tempting to spend the rest of your day at the playground, pry yourself loose and venture further for some truly amazing sights.
After spending several hours at Ruby Beach, we pressed on to our second beach of the day, First Beach (how’s that for a confusing sentence). But first, we stocked up on sandwich fixins and Prof. Cruise friendly snacks and checked into our adorable cabin at Quileute Oceanside Resort, located a bit shy of an hour from Ruby Beach.
If I had to spend out the rest of my days at cabin 29 at the Quileute Oceanside Resort, I’d miss cruising (and you’d finally get a reprieve from this annoying blog since there isn’t any internet or cell access there), but would otherwise be content and thankful for a privileged life indeed. I wanted to stay there so badly, I planned this whole 18 day trip around the only night they had available all summer.
The cabin had everything we needed, a fully stocked kitchen, a big bed that all three of us slept in until Prof. Cruise got booted out for kicking, two recliner chairs (one of which would become Prof. Cruise’s bed), an electric fireplace, a table, a deck, and this friendly neighbor:
And best of all, it backed onto First Beach. Words can’t capture the haunting magic of a seemingly barren wasteland with white air so thick and sticky you can almost taste marshmallows on your tongue. With the ground below your feet dissected by sand on one side and thundering waves on the other.
Then the cottony fog begins to dissipate, slowly revealing a trail of stacks, one larger than the next, enormous driftwood trees with roots still attached, and dozens of brown rustic structures in the distance suddenly so clear and magnificent that it feels as if you’re seeing for the very first time.
Don’t ever surrender your day on First Beach to fog. Make the best of it and know that eventually all will become clear.
While sharing an adventure with those we love makes for some great memories, sometimes a venture into the wilderness alone helps center us and reminds us to appreciate what we’ve left behind: “I wish they were here.”
The above captures the start to my third day on Second Beach (confusing again, I know – why don’t these beaches have real names?). I’d risen early to watch the sunrise and go for a morning run. Without a route mapped out, I found myself at the trailhead for Second Beach and figured, “why not check it out.” The 3/4 mile trail would have been too difficult for my mom and H and at the bottom I had to climb over dozens of enormous driftwood trunks to make it down to the beach. But what a payoff!
It was quiet, all but abandoned save for six tiny tents huddled close to the tree line with their occupants still deep in slumber.
I’m one who enjoys solitude, but if I were to grow lonely, I had thousands of sea creatures to keep me company. Fortunate enough to arrive at low tide, I was gifted with a display of sea life more bountiful than I’ve seen anywhere outside of an aquarium.
If you feel confident in making it down the trail and over the driftwood, I can’t recommend more strongly that you include Second Beach on your itinerary for Olympic National Park. I can’t wait to return here to camp when H gets a little older. Beach camping permits can be obtained at the Wilderness Information Center in Port Angeles.
After a somber goodbye to cabin 29 and the coast, we drove an hour east along US 101 to Lake Crescent where we turned off the road at a random pullout and ate a picnic lunch at our choice of a dozen or so vacant picnic tables down a hilly embankment with a front row seat to the lake. It was peaceful, private, and beautiful. We were joined once or twice by families coming for a quick look at the view or a brisk, refreshing (read as cold) swim, but otherwise we had the whole place to ourselves to do this:
And while my rock skipping skills didn’t improve much, “plop,” we had a lovely time.
Twenty miles further East on US 20 is the turnoff for Madison Falls. This is the perfect stop for young kids or anyone with accessibility challenges as the trail to the falls is very short (.3 miles) and paved. Minimal effort for a big reward – Prof. Cruise approves!
Plus there are stunning views of The Elwha River across the street. And once again, if there’s a puddle of water to be found, we’re in it!
After cleaning off our muddy feet for the millionth time this trip, we loaded back into the car and headed 20 minutes further east on US 101 toward our accommodations for the next two nights.
We selected the Red Lion in Port Angeles due to the location on the water, views, and proximity to Hurricane Ridge.
While the exterior looked a bit dated, the room was clean, modern, and nicely appointed. The best part was the large balcony overlooking the Straight of Juan De Fuca where we saw cruise ships sailing by from Seattle on their way to Alaska. We waved with gusto and shouted “we’ll see you soon!” Make sure to pay a little extra for a water view – it’s worth it if you’ll be spending any time in the room. You can find more information about the hotel and book it here.
There’s a small pocket beach behind the Red Lion, a paved trail along the water, many good restaurants nearby, and a little aquarium, the Feiro Marine Life Center, with touch pools that fascinated H. He stood at one for a good hour, transfixed, as a volunteer told him about the penpoint gunnels.
Why doesn’t anyone ever listen to my lectures with that much interest and intensity? I can barely get you people to look up from your phones without bribing you with free doughnuts that I only purchased so I could hold six back for myself.
Now that I have your attention, let’s move on to Hurricane Ridge.
While this is the place most people begin their journey through Olympic National Park, it was our final stop before heading back to Seattle the next morning. I was particularly excited to visit Hurricane Ridge for two reasons. First, I grew up in the mountains, with my childhood home nestled at the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon, just outside of Salt Lake City, so I’m always eager to get back to them.
Second, we can see the snow capped Olympic Mountains on clear days from our current home in Downtown Seattle. Sometimes I feel like I can reach right out and touch them and can almost smell pine and damp earth and crisp mountain air. It’s like they’re beckoning me: “come.” And finally, after playing coy for two years, I was finally there!
We made the 20 mile drive from Port Angeles to the Visitor’s Center at the top of Hurricane Ridge, passing by the ranger station at the base of the mountains to pay our $30 per vehicle fee. More information about fees and passes can be found here. This was the only area on our 4-day journey that required the fee, but it’s good for 7 days.
Our drive started out foggy, but cleared as we got higher in elevation. Be cautious for deer – we saw many. Being accustomed to mountain driving, the steep curvy road didn’t phase me, but it might be a little unnerving to some (like my husband Eric who hyperventilated the first time I drove him up Little Cottonwood Canyon).
But grip the wheel and keep going, “I think I can, I think I can,” because the views from the top are breathtaking.
We spent the night back at the Red Lion in Port Angeles and headed back to Seattle the next morning. It took 2 1/2 hours to get from Port Angeles to downtown Seattle, including the ferry ride. Once home, we unpacked, then immediately repacked for leg two of our epic trip honoring my amazing mom and her 70 years of making this world a kinder, happier, funnier place.
Dogs were permitted at Ruby Beach, First Beach, Second Beach, the north shores of Lake Quinault and Lake Crescent, and on the Madison Falls trail. They were not permitted on the trails around Hurricane Ridge. See here for more information about dogs in Olympic National Park and the surrounding areas.
Yes. Go here for more information.
Yes. There are black bears in Olympic National Park. Which leads to the follow-up question:
No. While it’s always advised to be cautious in any area with a population of bears (including storing all food in bear canisters), there has never been a reported bear attack in the history of Olympic National Park and bear sightings are rare.
$30 for a private vehicle. See here for additional fee information.
I recommend these spots:
In summary. Go. To. This. Place.
Class dismissed.
For other “Road Trips From Seattle,” go here.
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