Thinking about a trip to Mt. Rainier National Park with kids in tow? I’ve made just that mistake three times and each time smacked myself for moving so far away from free childcare, i.e. my son’s grandparents.
Just kidding (mostly). My son “H,” who doubles as my teaching/travel assistant, and I have had some great adventures, exploring many different areas of Mt. Rainier National Park. Here are some of the places we’ve enjoyed the most, starting from the park’s Nisqually Entrance, a two hour drive from our home in downtown Seattle.
If I had to pick my top kid friendly trail in Mount Rainier National Park, I’d probably choose the Trail of the Shadows across the road from the National Park Inn. It’s particularly well suited for kids under six. This is also a great spot to visit before the snow melts at Paradise and other high elevation areas. When we visited in late May, it was entirely clear of snow, while the trails around Paradise were still fully buried – think snow shoes, not hiking boots.
At .75 miles, the Trail of the Shadows is a well groomed, mostly flat, and short loop that fits the bill for anyone with limited mobility or endurance. Or for nerds like Prof. Cruise who like to stop at every point of interest and read every informational sign. This trail offers many of both, so plan on taking your time.
Highlights include several natural mineral springs, first discovered by James Longmire, the Longmire Cabin, and a small creek adorned with skunk cabbage. “H” was both fascinated by the bubbling hot springs and moderately terrified when I tried to convince him they were witches brew. This whole area reminded me of a land dreamed up in the brains of the Brothers Grimm. Kids will also enjoy exploring inside the tiny cabin, which is notable for being the oldest surviving structure within Mt. Rainier National park. Warn them to watch out for the Big Bad Wolf disguised as grandma, though. #momoftheyear
Better yet, pull over before the kids start yelling. Long drives can be tough on little people, so consider stopping at some of the spectacular pullouts to let them flail around like a hooked fish while you take in the views. Then make them pose for a photo,”mooooooooooooom!” before throwing them back in the water. I mean car.
Paradise is located on the south slope of Mt. Rainier and is the most popular and visited area of the park. Don’t let road rage ruin Paradise for you – plan to arrive early as the parking lots are frequently full by 9am on peak summer days.
So what’s so special about Paradise? If only Myrtle Falls was flowing with chocolate, it would pretty much live up to its name for me. With striking views of Washington State’s tallest and most iconic glacier-covered stratovolcanic mountain, abundant wildlife, dramatic vistas, accessible paved trails, a picturesque inn and visitor’s center, and wildflowers so bright and prolific you’ll think a rainbow exploded and showered the whole area in color. Here are my favorite kid friendly spots in Paradise:
Stop by the Jackson Visitor Center for restrooms, snacks or a casual lunch in a small deli, maps, films about the area, ranger led programs, and interactive exhibits if your kiddos are craving something less nature-y. Be sure to snap a photo in front of the steps to paradise out the back.
You can also head out on one of our two favorite kid friendly trails from there: the Alta Vista Trail and the Skyline Trail to Myrtle Falls.
Gazing at this place from the outside, you’ll wonder if you went to sleep in your apartment carpeted in Legos (ouch) with “clean me” written in dust on the TV stand and woke up in the Swiss Alps at a chalet with maid service. “Am I dreaming?” No, you’re not. And you don’t need to travel all the way to Europe to experience this place. Any time you want to avoid cleaning, it’s just a 2 1/2 hour drive away from Seattle!
The Paradise Inn includes sleeping quarters that need to be booked approximately 25 years in advance (they’ve never had a vacancy when I’ve looked, but I’m not known for planning very far ahead). The general public can also enjoy a rustic lobby with wood beams and stone fireplaces, a gift shop, a coffee shop, and a dining room.
While pricey, the Dining Room at Paradise Inn shouldn’t be missed. Enjoy at least one delicious meal here surrounded by breathtaking views and a cozy, peaceful ambiance that will help your blood pressure stay stable despite spilled drinks and flying forks. Don’t worry, once the mac and cheese arrives, they’ll be too busy stuffing that gooey goodness into their mouths to remember to torment you. Go here for dining hours and a peek at the menus.
The Nisqually Vista trail is an easy, paved 1.2 mile loop trail perfect for strollers, young hikers, or anyone with limited mobility or endurance. It can be accessed via the lower parking area at Paradise. For most, this trail takes around 45 minutes.
The glacial, river, and meadow views rival those of the longer, more difficult trails. Trust me, you won’t feel like having kids is holding you back from achieving a richer park experience – you’ll practically feel like you owe the place an apology for putting in so little effort for such a huge reward. It’s like winning the jackpot on a $.05 slot pull.
But if you’re seeking revenge for 2+ hours of “are we there yet” and hoping to knock the kids out cold for the ride home, consider the slightly longer and steeper Alta Vista Trail accessed either in the lower parking lot or behind the Visitor’s Center. At 1.75 miles round trip, it usually takes about 1 hour 15 minutes. Wild flowers proliferate in the late summer and we’ve had many wildlife encounters in this area.
The Alta Vista Trail is easy to combine with another of our favorites, the Skyline trail to Myrtle Falls.
This short, 1 mile out and back walk to Myrtle Falls is beautiful in its own right, but offers a stunning payoff at the end. We’ve taken a stroller up this paved trail and it’s accessible for wheelchairs too, but expect to huff and puff if you’re the pusher. But on the downhill return trip you can pretend to be a runaway train. The kids will love it, but grandma may not be so amused.
Or you might find yourself running from a bear (please don’t actually do that) – we saw a black bear up in the hills above the falls on one visit. The witches and wolves dressed in human night clothes are fairy tales, but the bears are real!
Once you’ve tired of Paradise (said no one ever), keep driving 3 miles on Steven’s Canyon Road until you reach the road-side parking area for Reflection Lakes. And just 10 feet from your car, your eyes will be asking your brain: “are there two mountains or one?”
While swimming and wading (and fishing) are prohibited at reflection lakes, we still like to take off our shoes and socks and roll up our pants so we can get good and muddy exploring around this beautiful area. And grab a stick. It’s absolutely critical you wield a stick to get the full experience. Watch for jumping trout in the lakes and keep walking along the muddy trail to a little pond if you want to see tadpoles and frogs.
This trail is 20 miles from the Paradise area on the east side of Mt. Rainier, so it probably isn’t doable if you just have one day at the park with kids. But if you have a few days or are starting your trip at the Steven’s Canyon entrance to the park, consider The Grove of the Patriarchs trail.
This 1.5 mile round trip trail will guide you through an old growth forest with trees – some upwards of 1,000 years old – that actually make Prof. Cruise feel young. A highlight of this trail for kids is the narrow suspension bridge that delivers you to an island in the middle of the Ohanapecosh River.
The current single vehicle fee is $30 and is good for seven consecutive days. Additional information on fees and passes can be found here.
We always stay at Alexander’s Lodge in Ashford located just over a mile from the Nisqually Entrance to Mount Rainier National Park. It’s great for kids as it offers a pond out back with fish to feed (you can buy food in the gift shop in the lobby), a big free breakfast, and free wifi. Go here for more information or to book. Rooms fill fast during peak times, so don’t wait too long.
If you want to stay within the park, your options are the National Park Inn or Paradise Inn. You can book either here.
You can also camp in Mount Rainier National Park. Go here for more information.
Yes, as seen with my very eyes. Indeed, there are black bears in all areas of Mt. Rainier National Park. Practice good bear safety but feel reassured that there has never been a bear related death at the park and seeing them is actually fairly uncommon.
It’s 2 hours from downtown to the Nisqually Entrance and another 30 minutes to the Paradise area.
You might find yourself confused upon overhearing a Seattleite say, “the mountain’s out.” Don’t bother looking around the streets of downtown for a rough, long-bearded, full figured reculse (at least that’s what I did the first time I heard it). They are talking about an actual mountain. The expression just means it’s clear enough to see Mt. Rainier from Seattle.
And while the view of Mt. Rainier is spectacular at a distance (from land or air), to truly appreciate the place you need to get closer. Strain your neck marveling at the height of her trees. Skip through her meadows of brilliant wild flowers singing, “The Hills are Alive!” Feel small at the banks of a lake staring at your own reflection in the reflection of her famous snow covered peak. Roll up your pants and muddy your toes. Hold your finger to your lips and whisper “shhhhh” so your kids can glimpse a deer before she trots out of sight. Giggle at leaping frogs and fish and bubbling springs. Replace “are we there yet” with “do we have to go home?” And experience the joy and excitement of an adventure through your kids and feel a little like a kid yourself. This is a magical place (even without actual witches) and I feel deeply lucky to live so close to it.
Class Dismissed.
*Check out my other “Road Trips From Seattle” posts here. And don’t forget to subscribe to the blog (scroll up to the top right if on a computer or keep scrolling down if on a mobile devise) and follow me on social media:
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