Why You’ll Love Icy Strait Point Or Sitka On Your Cruise to Alaska
I’ve received numerous frantic messages today from those who were booked on the Carnival Freedom from Seattle to Alaska this summer. They just received this e-mail from Carnival explaining that their ship will change to the Splendor and they’ll be visiting either Icy Strait Point or Sitka instead of Skagway:
The purpose of this post is to serve as a virtual hug and a tissue (thankfully snot and tears don’t travel through the internet…no offense), as I can empathize with what you’re feeling. A similar thing happened to me this past summer when a scheduled stop in Sitka was changed to Skagway just a few weeks prior to sailing. While I’d been to both ports numerous times, I had a new hike planned in Sitka that I’d been training for all summer.
But I’m also here to reassure you that you’re still going to have an amazing cruise to Alaska (I ended up trying a new hike in Skagway instead and it turned out to be one of my favorites ever) and to provide you with some practical information and tips for your new port stop, either Icy Strait Point or Sitka. And the real silver lining in all of this is that now you have an excuse to book another cruise to Alaska! And a future cruise on the Freedom!
Let’s start with Icy Strait Point…
Icy Strait Point
Icy Strait Point, located on Chichagof Island, has a rich and interesting history as a salmon cannery and important fixture of nearby Hoonah, employing and even temporarily housing residents of Hoonah when a fire destroyed the town in 1944. But today, Icy Strait Point serves solely as a cruise ship destination – that’s probably why you’ve never heard of it – privately owned by Alaskan Natives though the Huna Totem Corporation. And that fact tops my list of things to love about Icy Strait Point:
10 Things to Love About Icy Strait Point
1: It’s owned and operated by local Native Alaskans, most residents of nearby Hoonah, Alaska’s largest Native Tlingit village.
2: All cruise dollars spent at Icy Strait Point go back into the local community.
3: Most tour operators have deep ties to the area and can offer a rich and unique account of its history and culture.
4: Only two cruise ships can be docked at Icy Strait Point at a time, leading to less development and fewer crowds.
5: Prolific wildlife.
Whales and eagles are regularly seen from shore and the nearby Spasski River valley is known for having one of the highest densities of brown bears anywhere in the world. Whale watching and wildlife tours are among the most popular excursions in Icy Strait Point.
6: It’s an adventure seeker’s paradise.
The longest ZipRider in the United States, treetop obstacle courses, kayaking, and ATV tours are among some of the activities to help you feel truly alive while you cause heart palpitations in your overprotective mother standing on the sidelines. Make sure to yell extra loud for her benefit.
7: Three restaurants close to the cruise pier specializing in fresh, local seafood.
Looking for a break from cruise food (said me, never – but you might have more discerning tastes)? Check out The Crab Station for snow, king, and Dungeness crab.
Try the historic and casual Cookhouse Restaurant for fresh Alaskan halibut & chips.
Or grab a cocktail and some seafood stew at the Duck Point Smokehouse. It’s located just steps from the cruise pier and is situated on the beach with a beautiful view of Icy Strait.
8: Free cannery museum.
I love a good museum. And I especially love a good free museum. Learn about the history of the area and see a 1930’s cannery line display.
9: Shopping.
This is actually one of the things I hate most about any port – you’ll never find me in a shop unless I forgot my deodorant again and I’m not traveling with my mom who always packs an extra one for me. But since my son who doubles as my teaching/travel assistant “H” loves his Gigi more than he loves me because she takes him shopping, I appreciate that others like it. So, shoppers rejoice! There are 12 shops in Icy Strait Point. And while you may see me speed walking past them, dragging my crying kid, feel free to stop into one for a local souvenir.
And finally, the thing I love most about Icy Strait Point:
10: The most beautiful walk in Alaska.
Well actually, two of the most beautiful walks in Alaska.
If you turn left upon exiting the cruise pier (or follow one of the signs that say “nature trail” for which there are two – you can start at either end), you’ll find yourself on a short, easy, groomed trail through a tiny parcel of the lush temperate rain forest of the Tongass National Forest.
But if you have more time to explore and boots made for walking, I’d strongly suggest you turn right and keep going and going and going until you reach the town of Hoonah. Here’s what you’ll see (presented with minimal commentary much to the relief of my faithful and patient readers):
A campfire to warm your hands.
Tall grasses to play in. Also known as Exhibit A when it comes to why I can’t have a yard. My lawn would look like this and my neighbors would need to stage an intervention in the interest of their property values.
A rock beach with crystal clear waters.
This old boat.
These stacks.
These spectacular views.
This cemetery. Because Prof. Cruise loves her a picturesque cemetery.
And these churches. Because Prof. Cruise also loves her a picturesque church.
And finally, this old wooden pier. I don’t recommend you do a cannonball off the end of it though – that made for a cold walk back to the ship.
Best Excursions for Icy Strait Point
Here are my three excursion recommendations for Icy Strait Point, with an option for every budget.
$ Budget Friendly Icy Strait Point
Walk to Hoonah! While free and not technically an excursion, I can’t recommend this walk strongly enough.
$$ Icy Strait Point On A Moderate Budget
If you want to see a bear in the wild on your cruise to Alaska, Icy Strait Point is your best bet. Why, you ask? Because the nearby Spasski River valley is known for having one of the highest densities of brown bears anywhere in the world. You won’t see them on your own though, you’ll need a guide experienced in bear tracking. Here’s the tour I’ve taken: We’re Going On A Bear Hunt. You can also read my full review of the tour (and find out if we actually saw any bears) here.
$$$ Splurge On Icy Strait Point
If your ship isn’t calling in Icy Strait Point and you want to see whales, don’t fret, you can also see them in Juneau (more information to come), but if you are lucky enough to be visiting Icy Strait Point, you’re in for a treat. Or I should say the whales are in for a treat and you’re in for a show! Icy Strait Point is an excellent place to see humpback whales bubble feeding (see image below), because they are attracted to the nutrient rich waters of nearby Glacier Bay. Go here for pricing and tour information.
Final Thoughts About Icy Strait Point and Hoonah
While it’s impossible for me to pick my favorite port in Alaska – they are all spectacular and unique – Icy Strait Point is a tempting choice for number one. It’s gone from “that place I’d never heard of” to a “must visit” spot when booking future Alaskan cruises. I hope you’ll feel the same! Now, let’s move on to Sitka.
Sitka
The historic town of Sitka has a rich history. It’s a native land of the Tlingit people and was part of Russia until 1867. It is best known for St. Michael’s Orthodox Cathedral, the Russian Bishop’s House, and the National Historical Park, which includes a museum and a forest trail featuring totem poles.
Alaska itineraries are often port heavy, with few sea days to relax and unwind, so sometimes it’s nice to have a few “play it by ear ports.” And if you’re traveling with young children or adults who act like young children if they have to wait more than three seconds in the crepe line (guilty as charged), you know that overscheduling can be stressful and day drinking or spending 6 hours at a rock beach looking for crabs can go a long way in keeping everyone happy, wedded, and on the unlocked side of the brig.
Because there are so many great free and inexpensive options close to the ship that don’t require any pre-planning, Sitka often serves as one of these ports for us. But there are some great excursions you can do from there too.
As you disembark your ship in Sitka, free shuttle buses will be lined up to transport you into town. Your driver will likely be a local kid who looks so young you’ll wonder if he needs a booster seat to see up over the steering wheel and a bitty diapered assistant with one tiny pigtail to sit on the floor and press the peddles for him. Thankfully it’s a straight shot and you’ll pass through only one of the two traffic lights in the entire town.
Slip your drivers a few dollars for gas station candy and Pokémon cards in exchange for telling you the story of the tour operator and the fake bear guarantee. I won’t spoil it other than to say that Shakespeare himself couldn’t have penned a better ending and that the guarantee was real, but the bear was fake. And whether the story itself is real? Pose the question at the bar later that night for what will be, at minimum, a spirited debate and at best settled via a full reenactment (I may or may not have played the part of the moose).
In any case, your shuttle will safely deposit you at the point of the arrow on my handy dandy map below. Feel free to print it to take with you. The identifier in the bottom left will remind you of who to curse at when you tire of walking in what locals call the “Sitka sun,” but what tourists refer to as the “damn rain.”
I’ve also included 9 free or inexpensive things you can do near the port in Sitka and will offer some detail below on each of them.
9 Free or Inexpensive Things to do Near Port in Sitka
1: Russian Bishop’s House
Halloween is my favorite holiday for two reasons. First, I get to send my T.A., “H” out in a humiliating costume to pilfer candy from strangers I will then pilfer from him immediately after rushing his bedtime routine because mama needs her some Kit Kats and Twix bars. Second, I can peak inside cool looking houses without getting arrested. So naturally I was eager to step inside the house of Ivan Veniaminov, the first bishop of Alaska. It’s a mustard colored nod to Russian colonial architecture and offers a fascinating (and free) lesson into the history of Sitka and the influence of the Russian Orthodox church. Be sure to connect with a park ranger for a guided tour of the second floor.
2: Sitka Sea Walk and Crescent Boat Harbor
Take a relaxing and gorgeous walk along the sea, passing by the Crescent Boat Harbor, the Sitka Community playground, the Sound Science Center, and through the National Historical Park. Stick close to the water to see jumping fish and to find a wealth of sea creatures at low tide and tiny, equal parts creepy and adorable, crabs under the rocks. Don’t be shy, get right in that water with your rain boots, but don’t accidentally get stranded on a boulder when the tide comes in unless you want to fully saturate your pants while introducing your thighs to the Sitka Sound: “Nice to meet you, but you seem a little cold.” This is by far our favorite activity in Sitka as evidenced by the 5,000 or so photos I seem to have of us here.
3: Sitka Community Playground
If you have a child with you or an adult who clearly exceeds the weight limit but insists on riding the swings while screaming “wheeeeeeeeeeeee!” (uh hum, Prof. Cruise!), you’ll want to stop at the recently completed Sitka Community Playground. This was a new and welcome surprise on our second stop in Sitka.
4: Sitka Sound Science Center
If you were that kid with the stick who was always poking at something growing up, well then this is the spot for you! The Sitka Sound Science Center includes a salmon hatchery and a small aquarium with an impressive collection of creatures in three large touch pools. It also features a juvenile killer whale skeleton on the ceiling, one of only five on display in the world. Be sure to ask about the included 30 minute guided tour if you’re there in the summer and about the Junior Naturalist Program if you’re short enough to still shop in the children’s department like I do or have an actual child with you. This is a small facility and can be easily covered in 30-60 minutes, but we enjoyed it and found it worth the inexpensive admission fee of $7 for adults and $5 for kids. Summer hours are Monday-Saturday from 9am-4pm.
5: Sitka National Historical Park
Begin at the visitor’s center where you will ground your walk through the park in history and culture, with displays of Native Alaskan artifacts and demonstrations of native crafts. Then head outside and meander through the 112 acre park shaded by mighty Sitka spruce trees and totem polls that together perfectly capture the relationship between the native Tlingit people and this magnificent little dot on our planet. And even though our planet is itself just a little dot in the vastness of the universe, as far as we know it’s the only one hospitable to our complex, capable of such horror and such beauty and triumph of spirit, kind. And you’ll emerge from this place with a fierce, almost motherly, drive to protect it. To do and be a little better.
Or you’ll find a log to stand on to stick your tongue out in protest of all this seriousness. In that case, grab a stick and let your imagination take you on an adventure. Nature is great for that too.
Either way, get out and enjoy this place. It’s not to be missed and is accessible to all for free.
6: St. Michael’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral
The most prominent features of St. Michael’s are the onion domes and gold crosses that adorn the roof. The building that stands today is a more fire resistant replica of the original building, established in 1848, that burned down in 1966. If you’re lucky enough to get a peak inside, you’ll find a priceless collection of Russian artifacts rescued from the original building by local townspeople. I’m told that Sunday services are offered in English, Tlingit, and Church Slavonic.
7: Russian Cemetery
Don’t cry for me Sitka. Should you see the ambulance greeting our ship as we pull into Sitka and hear the Captain, in a solemn yet still unavoidably sexy voice, implore passengers to “please pray for the family of Prof. Cruise – it seems the fettuccine alfredo and warm chocolate melting cake with two ice creams has finally done her in,” don’t cry for me. Know that I’ve died doing what I love and return my body to the earth here, at this overgrown and neglected, making it all the more lovely and peaceful, spot where all my fans (i.e. my mother) can visit, leaving me a ship on a stick and three servings of dessert before sailing away to carry on my legacy of neglecting all adult responsibilities in favor of a pampered life at sea.
8: The Sitka Public Library
I’m the child of two former librarians who met and fell in love at the public library. It’s no wonder I’m such a nerd, right? It also explains why I always seek out the public library at every port. Well that and the free internet. Mostly the free internet.
The library in Sitka is located right next to the shuttle stop, so it’s convenient to pop over for a few minutes before you head back to the ship. It also offers beautiful views of the water and mountains you can ignore while you’re doing the important work of posting selfies to Instagram of yourself at the bar last night that get progressively more blurry until the last shot which is of your finger over the lens. There’s also a cute little children’s room with some toys for toddler-aged kids and computer learning games for older kids that you can use as a babysitter until the kid’s club on the ship opens back up.
9: The Sheldon Jackson Museum
I’m always learning things from my students. In truth, they’re usually much smarter and worldlier than I am and are far less likely to have white marks on the butt of their black trouser pants because they scratched with chalky hands behind the podium thinking no one could see. “Prof. Cruise, you have chalk on your ass again.” That’s one of the things I frequently learn from them. And also that I’m a bad speller. But, I digress.
The Sheldon Jackson Museum was closed when we visited, so I’m hoping someone can enlighten us on their experience there in the comments section. You can also find more information on their website.
The Best Excursions in Sitka
Here are my recommendations if you want to do an excursion in Sitka:
$$ Sitka On A Moderate Budget
If you want to see some highlights of Sitka that are not within walking distance or have mobility issues, I recommend this moderately priced tour. You’ll visit Fortress of the Bear, the Alaska Raptor Center, the Russian Bishop’s House, St. Michael’s Cathedral, and the Sitka National Historic Park/Totem Park.
$$$ Splurge On Sitka
For a splurge (which isn’t actually much of a splurge priced at around $100), explore the beauty of the Alaskan coastline around Sitka in a kayak. If kayaking in Alaska isn’t on your bucket list, it really should be. Go here for tour details.
Conclusion and Additional Information
While I know you’re mourning the excursion you had booked for Skagway (probably the train, right?), I hope you’ve discovered something that peaks your interest in Icy Strait Point or Sitka. For those who enjoy hiking, I’d also recommend reading my Guide to Hiking on your Cruise to Alaska. And be sure to check out my Packing Guide for your Cruise to Alaska.
And with that…
Class Dismissed.
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