Trip Report: South America/Antarctica Itinerary on the NCL Star

Trip Report, Review, and Ship Tour: South America/Antarctica Itinerary on the Norwegian Star

Introduction and Itinerary

Why we booked this cruise: This particular cruise checked off all the boxes on our list. Bucket list itinerary? CHECK. Cruise over Christmas, New Years, and my son’s birthday (this has become a tradition for us)? CHECK. Reasonable price? CHECK. Suitable for all the grandparents to join us (an expedition trip to Antarctica wasn’t something they would likely be comfortable with)? CHECK. Minimum of 14 days onboard or it doesn’t even count as a cruise (long cruises and b2b’s have ruined me)? CHECK. So we jumped on it, booking about a year in advance.

The crew:

We were a cruise party of 6 (I use the word “party” ironically as all of us were in bed by 9pm each night). Mr. Cruise and I were both thrilled and low key terrified when the grandparents agreed to join us. This would be the first time all of us (my husband, 11 year-old son, mom, and in-laws) traveled together and we were coming from three different cities with about 15 different airline connections to make during the winter and most crowded travel time of the year. What could possibly go wrong? Only about 45,000 things that had me Googling “how to make the best of Christmas in the Dallas airport with no luggage or gifts while figuring out how to board a cruise ship that left Buenos Aires without you, but with all your kid’s grandparents 3 days ago” at like 2 in the morning. But thankfully, after a resolved dental emergency two days before sailing, only one other thing actually went wrong (you’ll have to read to the end to find out what it was).

Our itnerary:

Our itinerary was as follows:

• Day 1: Embarkation in Buenos Aires
• Day 2: Montevideo, Uruguay
• Day 3: Sea day
• Day 4: Puerto Madryn, Argentina
• Day 5: Sea day
• Day 6: Punta Arenas, Chili
• Day 7: Ushuaia, Argentina
• Day 8: Ushuaia, Argentina
• Day 9: Sea day
• Day 10: Antarctica, Paradise Island
• Day 11: Antarctica, Elephant Island
• Day 12: Sea day
• Day 13: Stanley, Falkland Islands
• Day 14: Sea day
• Day 15: Sea day
• Day 16: Punta del Este, Uruguay
• Day 17: Debarkation in Buenos Aires

Flights and transfers: Some may be a bit intimidated by an itinerary like this, fearing the cost or hassle of flying somewhere so far to embark on a cruise. And if I’m being honest, even as a seasoned cruiser and international traveller, I was too. This would be our first visit to South America and none of us spoke any Spanish. As such, we decided to make all our air and transfer arrangements through NCL and also take advantage of a 2 for 1 airfare special they were running at the time of our original booking. This turned out to be financially beneficial, as when I searched independently for flights (for science, so I could report back to all of you), I couldn’t find anything close to the deal we got through NCL.

Upon first receiving our flight assignments I was disappointed to see that my mom and I would be flying on separate flights from my husband and son and that our itinerary also had us leaving Seattle at 5am and then waiting in the Dallas airport for nearly 12 hours for a connection. Not ideal, but I figured at least we’d have PLENTY of time to catch our connection to Buenos Aires and maybe I could pick up some gig work in Dallas for a day to earn some extra spending money (just kidding, but I did generate a fairy long and odd list of things I could do in an airport for 12 hours).

Thankfully NCL changed our flights to match my husband and son’s and our layover time was reduced from 12 hours to around 90 minutes (better, but how was I going to taste and rank every eating establishment in all five terminals in 90 minutes?).

Visas: As Americans, no visas were required for any of our port of calls.

A quick word about cost: As this was a”bucket list” cruise for us, we were prepared to spend more than we normally would (those who follow me know I’m cheaper than a half off fast food value meal and would cruise in a janitor’s closet should one be available for the right price). However, even needing two cabins (since I would be sharing with my mom and my husband with my son), we spent far less than we have on certain itineraries sailing from domestic ports. All in, including flights, transfers, and excursions, we spent around $3,000 per person for a 16-night bucket-list itinerary over Christmas and New Year’s (which are always priced higher). We received several price drops as our final payment date approached, so be sure to always watch prices and call your agent or NCL if they drop.

A note on the weather: While we had a few very warm port days, the weather overall was cool to downright freezing so I’d suggest packing very few warm weather clothing pieces and prioritize cold weather clothing and gear (you WILL need coats, hats, gloves, etc).

Day 1: Embarkation Day

For us, it was about 15 total hours in the air from Seattle to Buenos Aires, not counting time spent waiting in airports. And guess how many of those hours my kid slept? Zero. Well no, he did finally fall into blissful and unwakeable slumber literally 10 minutes before our wheels touched down in Buenos Aires and was heavier than a dead elephant to drag off the plane.

Our NCL bus transfers were easy and although our embarkation terminal changed at the last minute due to storm damage at our original location, we made it onboard the Star without any major issues. Our first day was spent settling into our cabins, making a few reservations, and exploring the ship. And, for me, eating like I hadn’t just told myself to “take it easy, you have 16 days to try everything.”

Here’s a tour of our inside cabin and a bonus tour of my in-laws club balcony cabin:

Day 2: Montevideo, Uruguay

Montevideo, Uruguay was the first port of call on our 16-night South America/Antarctica itinerary on the Norwegian Star.  We booked a private city tour (Highlights of Montevideo) through Shore Excursions Group.  We saved significant money by both booking privately and purchasing a package deal that included four excursions at four different ports.  I strongly recommend avoiding cruise ship excursions if you’re comfortable doing so – they’re crowded, overpriced, and often not that great.  

Anyway, on our tour we visited Old Town, Independence Square, the Mausoleum of General Artigas, Parliament Palace, Mercado Agricola Montevideo (an iron-built indoor market), Battle Park, the La Carreta statue (a bronze monument depicting oxen pulling a covered wagon), the Estadio Centenario soccer stadium, and Pocitos Beach. It was a decent tour, but much of the commentary was in Spanish, so we didn’t learn as much as we’d hoped. 

Also, don’t hate me, but it’s summer here and being from Seattle where our summer temps are mild, the sun and high 70’s we experienced today had us sprinting toward the ship pool like we were in flames.  Lol.

Tonight we dined at La Cucina, the Italian specialty restaurants on the Star.  I have good news for my regular followers who hate it when I cruise solo because they only see the vegetarian options – there  are four non-rabbits on this sailing with me who only get mildly annoyed when I yell at them mid bite to “spit that out so I can take a photo!” Here’s the menu:

And here’s what we ordered:

Day 3: Sea Day

Merry Christmas Eve from the Norwegian Star.  I spent most of this first sea day channeling my best 10 (almost 11) year-old.  My kid’s had a bit of trouble making friends due to language barriers, so despite having three grandparents onboard (whom I adore, but also invited primarily so I wouldn’t have to supervise or entertain my kid), I hung out with him pretty much all day (with the exception of a penguin lecture I attended with my mom), because either I’m super fun or a sucker or have mom guilt (normally I would have ditched him, but it was Christmas Eve).  

Thankfully he eats a LOT of ice cream, which I also enjoy.  But that’s pretty much where our interests diverge.  If I were cruising solo I guarantee you wouldn’t find me spending 21/24 hours at the arcade with the remaining 3 spent shouting out numbers at Deal or No Deal, golfing, and peeing due to all the Fanta I’d drunk (it would be due to martinis).  

Anyway, we’re off to Christmas Eve dinner (no special Christmas Eve menu in the MDR on NCL – just the regular night 3 menu), to a Christmas sing-a-long (there’s been a real shortage of holiday activities so far), and then to our cabins where we’ll attempt to stay up all night to catch a glimpse of the jolly man, but will likely be out cold by 9:30pm. 

Tonight’s dinner menu in the MDR:

And here’s what we ordered:

Day 4: Puerto Madryn, Argentina

Merry Christmas!  Today at port in Puerto Madryn, Argentina we traveled two hours to the largest penguin colony in South America.  Punta Tombo is home to over a million magellanic penguins during the breeding season lasting from roughly September to April.  While this was one of the most spectacular things I’ve seen on a cruise, I was a little disappointed that none of the penguins were wearing top hats and bow ties in honor of Christmas. Still, I’d highly (HIGHLY) recommend this tour, booked privately through Shore Excursions Group.

Additional wildlife we saw in Madryn/Punta Tombo (normally we’d lose our minds for both of these, but the penguins upstaged them). The llama looking thing is not a fictional character invented in the weird, rhyming mind of a children’s book author, it’s a guanaco, a wild llama.  

We ate Christmas dinner in the MDR. Here’s a link to the special menu we enjoyed along with photos of what we ordered:

NCL Christmas Dinner Menu

Day 5: Sea Day

Today was our second “relaxing” day at sea.  I got demolished by a 10-year-old at Alice and Wonderland chess (have 5-6 martinis before playing giant deck chess for a similar effect), ping-pong, and shuffleboard and competed in “Complete Opposites” where I lost the game for my family when I couldn’t say the complete alphabet backwards. Remind me to add Xanax to my packing list the next time I cruise with these people! 

Tonight we dined at Ginza, the complimentary Asian restaurant on the Star.  The food was tasty and it was a nice change from the MDR and buffet, but my favorite thing about it was the Wasabi cocktail (which isn’t at all what you’d expect- it’s a super sweet martini).  Seriously, I’ll fight anyone who doesn’t agree that it’s the best cocktail at sea, across any line. Anyway, here’s what we ordered:

Day 6: Punta Arenas, Chili (Cancelled)

My morning routine has been to hit the gym as soon as it opens at 5am.  If you’re going to be impressed, do so now before I tell you that I mostly just sit on a spin bike while binging The Crown on my iPad.  Then I hit O’Sheehan’s for my 1st of three breakfasts.  O’Sheehans is a complimentary 24 hour pub on the Star serving breakfast, lunch/dinner, and late night fare.  Here’s the breakfast menu along with some food pics:

“Everything is beautiful and I am so sad. This is how the heart makes a duet of wonder and grief. The light spraying through the lace of the fern is as delicate as the fibers of memory forming their web around the knot in my throat. The breeze makes the birds move from branch to branch as this ache makes me look for those l’ve lost in the next room, in the next song, in the laugh of the next stranger. In the very center, under it all, what we have that no one can take away and all that we’ve lost face each other. It is there that I’m adrift, feeling punctured by a holiness that exists inside everything. I am so sad and everything is beautiful.” -Adrift by Mark Nepo

Today marks the 13th anniversary of my beloved dad’s death from cancer.  I woke up to this sunrise and missed him so acutely, heartbroken that he isn’t here to see it, that he’s missed so much.  Everything is beautiful and I am so sad.  

Much like my emotions today, up and down, were the ocean swells, necessitating that we cancel our scheduled port of call in Punta Arenas, Chili (meaning we wouldn’t be visiting Chili at all on this sailing – I guess a good excuse to book another South America cruise).  We made the most of an extra sea day by playing “Cards Against Humanity” (thankfully most of our fellow cruisers don’t speak English or they might have really questioned the appropriateness of our lunchtime conversation) and taking in the views (from indoors) of the Chilean fjords.

At dinner we had a Diet Coke toast in honor of my dad (that was his favorite beverage) and I’m writing this from the bathtub in my in-laws club balcony cabin where I chuckled at the memory of my dad cutting a hole in the wall of his bathroom so he could watch his Sunday morning political shows from the bath.  Up and down with barf bags at the ready, full of sorrow and love and a deep appreciation of this beautiful planet I’ve been so privileged to experience so much of, thankful for the touching words of support I’ve received from so many of you today, I’m signing off for now, eager and hopeful for tomorrow. 

Tonight’s dinner in the MDR:

Day 7: Ushuaia, Argentina

We spent today exploring Tierra del Fuego National Park near Ushuaia (also known as “The End of the World”). You’ll notice the extreme change in temperature this far south – we’ve gone from shorts to parkas in just a few days.

 

Day 8: Ushuaia, Argentina

We’re docked in Ushuaia for a second day.  And what a day it’s been!  Mr Cruise and I are celebrating “keeping a human alive for 11 years with minimal trauma day” and we spent the morning observing prolific wildlife (thousands of penguins and dozens of sea lions were the highlights) as we sailed aboard a catamaran through the Beagle Channel (via a private tour booked through Shore Excursions Group). We died. Dead. Gone.

Tonight we’re off to Teppanyaki to celebrate Mr Cruise and I (and the 11th birthday of the best cruising buddy a gal could ask for!  Join me in wishing H a happy 11th!). 

So, Teppanyaki.  Eating at a Japanese hibachi grill in South America with a Filipino chef.  Go figure. But what I really couldn’t get past was the fact that my son ordered fruit for his birthday dessert. FRUIT!  So while everyone else in my family was sharing memories of my son’s birth 11 year ago, I was questioning whether the whole thing even happened.  Like, “how could you possibly be my child?!?” Anyway, I tried to pause my existential questioning long enough to enjoy the show and my meal, which was ok, but nothing special (note to vegetarians that the miso soup and the mustard sauce are not vegetarian – I really wish NCL made better use of food labels to make it easier for those with dietary restrictions).  Here’s what we ordered along with a few action shots and the menu:

Day 9: Sea Day

Today we entered the infamous Drake Passage en route to Antarctica.  While swells were high at times, it turned out 200 seasick patches and a ginger drip were overkill and by late afternoon seas calmed enough for me to enjoy a lovely (albeit brisk) evening walk on the promenade deck.  During our day at sea mom and I enjoyed two fascinating lectures by two of the four onboard naturalists – one on early Antarctic exploration and one on the Southern Ocean.

We ate lunch and dinner in the MDR and my kid, once again, destroyed me at chess.  We spotted our first enormous iceberg, which dwarfed the bergs we’re used to seeing in Alaska.  

Regarding lunch in the MDR, it appears there are 3 different lunch menus that rotate on longer itineraries.  Here was today’s and what we ordered (and didn’t order, but received anyway):

Mom ordered the peanut butter cup cheesecake, but was told for the 2nd time that it wasn’t available and had been replaced by the lava cake.  I ordered the mocha pot de crème and the raspberry panna cotta, but also received the chocolate lava cake. That’s okay, I gobbled it up and felt justified heading up to the buffet for mocha cake and Victoria cake and some pistachio ice cream.

Here’s what we ordered for dinner in the MDR:

Day 10: Antarctica, Paradise Island

Today we arrive in Antarctica where we will spend the day sailing Gerlache Strait, Paradise Bay, and the Danco Coast.  I’m almost too excited to eat 3 breakfasts this morning. Almost…

Later. We’ve arrived in Antarctica and I’ve made another dramatic slash though one of the few remaining items on my bucket list: seeing penguins on ice (while hard to capture in photos, the little black dots on the iceberg below are penguins and could be seen clearly through binoculars).

Today we visited the Gerlache Strait, Paradise Bay, and the Danco Coast where we viewed towering ice and snow covered peaks, glaciers, and enormous icebergs.  In terms of wildlife, we spotted at least a dozen humpback whales, orcas, gentoo penguins both swimming and chilling on icebergs, and other varieties of sea birds.  Weather conditions have been perfect – clear with partial sun and almost no wind. What a magnificent end to 2023 (good luck 2024, this is going to be hard to top!).

Tonight we enjoyed a special New Year’s Eve dinner menu in the MDR.  Here’s a link to the menu and photos of what we ordered:

NCL New Year’s Eve Menu

Ringing in the new year at sea!  Those who saw the Instagram video I posted of the New Year’s countdown and balloon drop in the ship’s atrium were impressed with my ability to stay up so many hours past my typical bedtime of 9pm.  I embraced their praise while failing to mention that I set my alarm for 11:45pm and was returned to blissful slumber by 12:15am.  But during that 30 minutes, I learned a lot about what goes on on a cruise ship in the wee hours.  Lots of drinking (complimentary champagne was provided), dancing, boisterous merriment, and cranky, over-tired children.  If it’s all the same to you, I prefer sleep. Lol. 

Day 11: Antarctica, Elephant Island

After hitting the gym, I took a two hour nap to make up for my 30 minutes of New Year’s partying (which consisted of snapping one selfie of mom and I where we tried to look alert and then watching the balloon drop before calling it a night).  

Then we attended a fascinating lecture about Shackleton to provide some context for our visit to Elephant Island later in the afternoon.  And while seeing the sight where Shackleton’s crew survived for four months before being rescued, fin whales stole the show today.  Off the shores of Elephant Island, upwards of 50 fin whales surrounded our ship to feed, many getting so close you could see them under the water before they came up for air.  

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It was a surreal and magical experience.  We also saw hundreds of thousands of penguins swimming, on icebergs, and in colonies on the shores of Elephant Island and many species of sea birds.  After today I’d answer the question, “is large ship cruising to Antarctica worth it?” with an emphatic YES! 

As far as dining, we lunched in the MDR and ate dinner, for a second time, at La Cucina.  Here was the lunch menu along with what we ordered:

Day 12: Sea Day

While I sprint through casinos with the speed of a cheetah on uppers, my husband and in-laws have spent a good deal of time there on this long sailing and have reported that it’s remained surprisingly uncrowned. That was until last night when almost no one could believe the incredible luck we had on our return trip through the Drake Passage, famous (infamous?) on YouTube for large puke-inducing swells and strong wind. The seas remained calm all day with almost no wind and all outdoor decks (including the wraparound promenade deck) stayed open.  So last night hordes flocked to the casino hoping to cash in on favorable luck.  Heck, I even tried my luck before losing a nickel and vowing never to do anything so reckless again. Lol.  

Anyway, before my devastating loss of the cost of 1/4000th of a cruise (which is how I measure every financial transaction), I attended two fascinating lectures given by our expedition (naturalist) team on continental drift and the natural history of the Falkland Islands (which we’re visiting next), ate every hour or so followed by a short promenade deck walk to justify eating again, and enjoyed a “Broadway Cabaret” performance in the Bliss Lounge by our production show cast.  

At 8pm, I was hit with an overwhelming craving for vegetable fried rice which, at home in Seattle would result in approximately $40 dollars in delivery fees plus the (exorbitant) cost of the actual rice.  But I just hit up Ginza for a full service meal of rice and tapioca pudding for a total cost of $0.  Oh cruising, how I love you.

Day 13: Stanley, Falkland Islands

Our luck continued today as we anchored near Stanley in the Falkland Islands and tendered to town (this port is frequently missed due to wind and large swells) where we enjoyed partial sun, temperatures in the high 50’s/low 60’s, and no wind.  We paid $20 each to take a bus a few miles outside of Stanley to an area called “Gypsy Cove.”  There we split into two groups with H and I heading out on a small, less groomed trail to the right in search of an adventure.  We came across a wildlife warden who said she could grant us access to a vast, pristine white sand beach if we went through a process of sanitizing our shoes to prevent any contamination of the fragile ecosystem of the area.  

Once on the beach, which we had almost completely to ourselves, we spent hours running up and sliding down giant sand dunes, looking for interesting shells and bones and wildlife, making sand angels, and laughing and talking and running on the beach.  While it’s been wonderful having all the grandparents with us this year, I treasured some one-on-one time with my guy.

Later we met back up with Mr Cruise where we completed a loop trail around Gypsy Cove taking in sweeping vistas and observing dozens of penguins (including our first king penguin) and other sea birds.  We even spotted our ship in the distance and snapped some great photos of her.  

But H’s favorite part of the day (and mine too if I’m being honest) was when a penguin waddled out from his burrow a few feet from us, looked right at us, then turned around to face his butt in our direction and projectile pooped before waddling right back into his burrow.  I feel that way about humans sometimes too, buddy!  

It was another magical day, one many wouldn’t picture when thinking of cruising (it really IS possible to avoid crowded touristy areas, Diamonds International, and overpriced, poor quality excursions). Book a cruise and go on an adventure! 

Dinner. Here’s what our table for six looked like at Cagney’s (NCL’s steakhouse) tonight: three colossal porterhouse steaks next to two plates of all veggie sides (my son and I are vegetarians), and one petite filet.  It was sort of like a three bears situation: too much meat, too little meat, and one juuuuuust right.  I went harder than anyone for the towering chocolate cake though, lest you accuse me of being stodgy and healthy.  

We used three Platinum vouchers to pay for our meal (on NCL, those at the Platinum loyalty level and above get two free meals at specialty restaurants, with one including a complimentary bottle of wine).  It was a fabulous dinner all around, but I’d have keeled over dead had I been expected to pay retail for it (our total bill including the 3 bottles of wine came to nearly $800 and it was soooo satisfying to see it all zeroed out).  Here are photos of what we ordered:

Day 14: Sea Day

Forgive me for striking a more somber tone for today’s post, but life (and cruising) isn’t always puppies and apple pie (and buffet crepes and sunset promenade deck walks).  Yesterday I attended the last of the formal lectures presented by our expedition (naturalist) team.  The first one was about the race to the pole between Great Britain and Norway and included two teams consisting of audience members representing the two countries in a game of trivia.  It was light and informative and fun (puppies and apple pie).  The second lecture addressed melting ice and the effects on global animal and human populations and while not entirely void of hope, offered a stark picture of the future of this wildly beautiful and fragile place we all share, that connects us, that every human will pass down to future generations.  

Two things struck me.  First, how impactful travel can be (even cruise travel which many criticize as not being immersive enough) at transforming abstract concepts and places and problems and stories we read about in articles and see in images into something that deeply resonates with us – that we can’t ignore or downplay or justify.  We’ve breathed in the air, we’ve broken bread with the people, we’ve touched a place and been touched by it.   Now we feel like we have a stake in it, so we’re more likely to act in ways to protect it.  

And second, as I watched my son marvel at dozens of fin whales feeding on krill and penguins floating by on an iceberg and ice sheets that dwarf the skyscrapers we see from our windows in downtown Seattle, I ached wondering if he’ll have these same experiences with his own children and grandchildren or if, by then, it will all be gone.  But then I returned to hope.  Hope that we can be the best version of ourselves as humans.  That we can blur the many lines that divide us and come together to do the difficult, but possible work that needs to be done to save this place.  I cling to the hope that one day my son will put his arm around his grandchild as they watch in awe at the ice and the whales and the penguins that remain because our generation fought to protect the magic of this place, this wild, beautiful, fragile planet.  For us, but mostly for them. 

Dinner at O’Sheehans (complimentary 24 hour pub serving breakfast, lunch/dinner, and late night fare):

Day 15: Sea Day

Today was our final “relaxing day at sea” and now that my kid has finally decided I’m not cool enough to hang with, it actually *was* relaxing.  I walked, I ate, I ate, I ate, I ate.  Then at 10am I attended a Q and A session with our expedition (naturalist team) where I was too chicken to ask what I really wanted to know: how can I score a gig as a cruise ship Antarctica naturalist with zero credentials or qualifications.  

Thankfully mine was the only dumb question and it was a fascinating and entertaining session.  Kudos to NCL for bringing on such a brilliant and engaging team of scientists – they really added tremendously to the experience.

MDR dinner:

Note that, despite looking like a severed limb, the black cherry strudel with vanilla ice cream was delicious.

Day 16: Punta del Este, Uruguay

Today we took a 2 hour bike tour in our last port of call, Punta del Este, Uruguay (booked privately through Shore Excursions group).  At this point my body is like, “pick a season, woman!” Hot, literal ice sheets, and back to hot. Lol. We enjoyed our tour and the city, known as the Monte Carlo of South America, but because this was a tender port, we had to wait over an hour past our stated meeting time for everyone booked on the tour to arrive from the ship (we had priority due to our Platinum loyalty status, but those who used tender tickets had a much longer wait to get off).  My advice if you’re going to book a private tour in Punta del Este is to book something later in the morning or afternoon (ours was scheduled for 9am). 

Back to Buenos Aires tomorrow where we have a final tour and airport transfer booked through NCL, then home. Mr. Cruise is worried Henry (our dog) has forgotten him and is bringing him two South American beef sticks (like he’s going to inquire who or where they’re from before inhaling them). Ha!

Day 17: Debarkation, Buenos Aires

Cry for me Argentina, the truth is I’ve left you. On our last day in South America, we visited many significant sights around Buenos Aires including La Recoleta Cemetery where Evita is buried (I find death terrifying, but death *rituals* fascinating).  

We also explored the colorful, artsy La Boca neighborhood which stood in contrast to the French architecture seen in much of the city.  

We booked this tour through NCL and it included a delicious buffet lunch with wine and an airport transfer.  While I normally avoid cruise ship excursions, this one was well worth the money (especially with the $50 excursion discount we received as part of our fare). 

All Good Things Must Come to an End

A challenging final leg of air travel plus two positive Covid tests (Mr. Cruise and I – everyone else in our group is negative so far) appears to be the universe reminding me that spectacular days only exist because of the mundane and hard ones.  So after 16 spectacular days at sea, we’ll use this time in isolation to reflect, be grateful, and plan our next adventure!  

Norwegian Star Ship Tour

Here’s a comprehensive, fully narrated tour of the NCL Star (don’t forget to subscribe to my YouTube channel):

A Brief Norwegian Star Review

If you prefer your ships like I prefer desserts (HUGE with lots of frosting and sprinkles), you might find the size and amenities on the Star lacking. However, I prefer smaller ships, so I found the Star suited me well (and even if it didn’t, this cruise was all about the itinerary and I’d book it again even if I hadn’t loved the ship).

Things I loved about the Norwegian Star:

• Size and layout (with the exception deck 6 which was tricky to navigate due to one of the MDR’s being plopped down right in the middle of it).
• Complimentary dining venues: We loved having O’Sheehan’s and Ginza onboard in addition to the MDR’s and buffet.
• Food quality. There were some misses, but overall the food quality was quite good. We especially loved the made-to-order soup station, cheese board, crepes, and cobblers on the buffet and the hard ice cream available at Topsiders (or on the buffet when it’s too cold outside).
• Lectures. I loved the lectures provided by our 4 person expedition/naturalist team. I wish every NCL sailing included this.
• Good gym hours: 5am-9pm.
• Promenade deck. The Star has a wraparound outdoor promenade deck (deck 7) which I enjoyed walking around to take in the views or work off 1/10,000th of the calories I consumed each day.
• Arcade, sport court, golf cage, deck games. While my kid never attended the kid’s club, he loved using his arcade pass for unlimited arcade games and enjoyed the sport court, golf cage, and variety of deck games. He really missed having water slides (they were removed from the Star a few years ago), but there were enough other activities to mostly keep him entertained.

Things I didn’t love about the Norwegian Star:

• Music in the atrium. Most of musicians who performed in the atrium were positioned on deck 8 above the coffee shop, meaning you couldn’t see them from the atrium. Why bother having live musicians if you can’t actually watch them?
• No observation lounge. The Star does not have large forward facing observation lounge like most other NCL (and non-NCL) ships.
• Hot gym. So many areas of the ship were chilly, but for some reason the gym (the one place you want chilly) was HOT.
• Entertainment/activities. NCL continues to miss the mark when it comes to activities and entertainment on smaller ships (I love the broadway shows on the large ships). I’d say around 80% of activities were revenue-generating things like bingo, Deal or No Deal, or other events sponsored by the shops, spa, or casino that aren’t very interesting and are mostly designed to get you to buy stuff you don’t want or need. And for the first time ever, I didn’t attend a single evening show in the theater – I’d either seen the shows many times before or they just didn’t sound that great. A few nights there was just a movie shown in the theater (although there were no afternoon movies on sea days which would have actually been appreciated).
• Only one pool shared by kids and adults. Ours was mostly a cool weather itinerary, but on the warm days the pool was VERY crowded with kids and adults.
• Lack of food labels and limited vegetarian options. At this point NCL is the least vegetarian-friendly line I sail. Several restaurants don’t have a single vegetarian entree and lack of food labels at the buffet and several restaurants makes eating vegetarian (or gluten, dairy, or sugar free) challenging.
• Very slow dinner service in the MDR.
• Overworked cabin stewards and no turndown service. Our steward had so many cabins to clean, often ours wasn’t completed until well into the evening. He was extremely positive and friendly, but the level of service just wasn’t comparable to other lines (no evening turndown service, we asked for extra towels and never received them, etc).

More Information about the Excursions we Booked

For those who want more information about the exact excursions we booked, I have included the full name, description, and cost below. All were booked privately through Shore Excursions Group except for the last one in Buenos Aires which we booked through NCL and included an airport transfer. Note that we booked a 4 excursion package through Shore Excursions Group that included the first four tours below for $411 per person (I have also included the a la carte price for each tour).

December 23: Montevideo, Uruguay
Highlights of Montevideo
$50.00

Experience personal attention, away from the large group tours offered by the cruise lines, when you book the Highlights of Montevideo City tour. This comprehensive tour includes visiting the Old Town (Ciudad Vieja), Port Market, Parliament Palace and much more. 

Begin directly at the pier and board your comfortable, air-conditioned vehicle and be provided with excellent local, knowledgeable guides. The eclectic city of Montevideo is also the capital of Uruguay and the 8th city on the 2013 MasterCard Global Destination Cities Index for Latin America. 

Your first stop is in the historic Old Town, where you can view beautiful buildings from colonial times. The old part of the town is held by Spanish military fortifications whose stone walls set the boundaries of the fortified San Felipe y Santiago city by the guarded fortress named Ciudadela. See also the Solis Theatre, The Cabildo, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Museo Torres Garcia and other museums. There are also many galleries, cafes and antique shops in the area. 

Next you will see Plaza Independencia (Independence Square) close to the city center. On this square you will see the statue and the Mausoleum of General Artigas, a Uruguayan national hero. Also view the Presidential offices, Palacio Estevez, Palacio Salvo and the Ciudadela Gate. Continuing you will see the Parliament Palace, inaugurated in 1925. The symbolism and neoclassical architectural style represents the democratic values of the country. 

From the Parliament area, you will take a scenic ride to Mercado Agricola Montevideo (MAM), one of the last iron-built markets in the Montevideo. What began as a humble fruit and vegetable stand in 1913 has since expanded twice into a shopping mall a city block in length offering a variety of goods. You will find today there are still vendors selling fresh fruits and vegetables. In 2006 the building was refurbished and helped to revitalize the entire neighborhood. 

After your introduction to some of the history of Montevideo you will next travel to the Obelisco De Los Constituyentes. This bronze and granite obelisk was inaugurated in 1938 as a tribute to the writers of the nation’s first constitution, dating to 1830. The sculptor of this work of art is the famous Jose Luis Zorrilla de San Martin. 

Continue to the area named Parque Batlle, or Battle Park, where you can stroll through the largest public park and green space in the city. While here, pause at La Carreta, a stunning bronze monument depicting oxen pulling a covered wagon that was created in 1934 by Jose Belloni. Next to the monument you will also see the famous Estadio Centenario, the soccer stadium inaugurated in 1930 for the World Cup in which Uruguay was victorious. On July 18, 1983 it was declared by FIFA as a World Football Historical Monument, being the only construction of its kind in the world. 

Buceo neighborhood gives you the chance to see the naval combat of 1814 that was fought with the victory of Admiral Guillermo Brown that marked an important moment in the wars for independence for South America. You will be able to appreciate the building of the Damaso Antonio Larranaga Zoological Museum, known today as the Oceanographic Museum, built in 1925 with its Arab style that was originally built as Cafe Morisco. Later make your way to the beautiful sands of Pocitos Beach and pose for a photo at the Montevideo sign. Admire the picturesque view from here as you look upon Pocitos Bay. 

Conclude your tour traveling to the Punta Carretas neighborhood and make a stop at the 62-foot tall Punta Brava Lighthouse, also known as the Punta Carretas Lighthouse. If time allows you may be able to enter the lighthouse and climb to the top if you like. 

Make a stop for a brief look at the Port Market, (Mercado del Puerto) and admire the iron structure that was built in Liverpool. At present, this area is one of the most typical gastronomic centers of the city where locals and visitors can taste the delicious Uruguayan meat which is cooked on the big barbecues. A great number of artists also perform in the surrounding area turning the streets into large theaters. Return along the River Plate enjoying city views back to port area and your ship. 

December 25: Puerto Madryn, Argentina
Exclusive Punta Tombo Penguins
$179.00

A half-million Magellanic penguins are waiting for you in Punta Tombo, South America’s largest penguin colony.

This tour begins with a two-hour drive to the Punta Tombo peninsula in the Argentinean province of Chubut. There you will find hundreds of thousands of Magellanic penguins. The two-mile-long, 1,969-feet-wide peninsula is covered with sand, clay, and gravel.

Between September and April, a large number of Magellanic penguins come to this site to incubate their eggs and prepare their offspring for migration – the largest such colony in South America. Couples stand in front of their nests, protecting the eggs from birds and other predators, and occasionally one adult goes to the sea for food.

Other wildlife encountered in the area includes sea birds (mainly seagulls, chimangos and cormorants), rheas and guanacos.

As you walk along the trail inhabited by penguins on both sides, you will be able to observe the different phases of these birds’ lives. Because of the proximity of the path to the nests, visitors may enjoy and learn from the penguin behavior. The path has benches for visitors to be able to rest and enjoy the view in this isolated place, far from towns and free of human interventions in the landscape.

After this once-in-a-lifetime experience, the tour returns to Puerto Madryn and your ship.

Please note: The length of your stay at the Punta Tombo will be determined by the tour guide according to the ship’s sailing time and following the circulation policies imposed by the reserve administration (usually no more than 90-100 minutes per group).

December 27: Punta Arenas, Chile
Exclusive Highlights of Punta Arenas
$75.00

Punta Arenas in Chile is the first human settlement that has remained permanently in Austral Patagonia. Now that’s something truly special.

Discover the special charm of this extreme town, formed from the contribution of different cultures that left a deep impression full of rich history and traditions. Today, its citizens are primarily descendants of immigrants from Croatia, Spain, Italy, Germany, England and the Isle of Chiloe in southern Chile.

Punta Arenas (“Sandy Point”) is a commune and the capital city of Chile’s southernmost region, Magallanes and Antarctica Chilena, and has a population of just under 120,000. The city was officially renamed Magallanes in 1927, but in 1938 it was changed back to Punta Arenas. It is the largest city below the southern 46th parallel. Sitting by the Strait of Magellan, Punta Arenas was in the past indisputably considered the world’s southernmost city.

The Punta Arenas Highlights Tour will take you to Cerro Mirador, where you can get a panoramic view of the city and the strait. You will also visit the ãoz Gamero Square, surrounded by mansions from the times of the great cattle traders, and the Magellan Monument, represented with a group of natives (Onas) surrounding it on its base.

You will also have the opportunity to visit the Maggiorino Borgatello Museum. Founded by Salesian missionaries, the museum provides a comprehensive overview of the region’s history, flora and fauna, and the habitat of its indigenous people.

The Punta Arenas tour concludes with a stop on the main square before returning to the port and your ship.

December 28: Ushuaia, Argentina
Tierra del Fuego National Park
$129.00

Inside Tierra del Fuego National Park, you’ll discover the beautiful rivers, peat bogs, and animals that call Panoramic Point, Lago Roca Lake, and Lapataia Bay home. Book this Ushuaia tour of Tierra del Fuego now for an informative and scenic adventure at a low price.

After a ten-mile drive west of Ushuaia, your professional guide will lead you across the valley from the Pipo River, arriving at Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire) National Park. This 150,000-acre park, established in 1960, extends from the Beagle Channel in the south, along the Chilean border, to Lago Fagnano Lake in the north.

While the vast majority of the park is virtually untouched, there are sections of the forest that were exposed to fire in the past. Today, these sections appear almost ghost-like in contrast against the backdrop of lush green vegetation.

You’ll see Panoramic Point, Lago Roca lake, and Lapataia Bay, which remain in the same state when observed in 1833 by explorer Charles Darwin aboard the British ship HMS Beagle.

December 29: Ushuaia, Argentina
Beagle Channel by Catamaran
$69.00

A well-equipped catamaran navigates picturesque Beagle Channel with you and other fortunate guests. Passing Isla de Los Pajaros (Bird Island), you’ll see various species of water birds. The catamaran will then cruise around Isla de Los Lobos (Sea Wolves Island), home to a large number of seals and sea lions. Book this Ushuaia tour now for an incredible Argentine experience at a low price.

The waterways of the Beagle Channel form a strait in the Tierra del Fuego Archipelago. An English-speaking guide will narrate the adventure as your licensed captain sails along to the Bird Island. This Provincial Reserve protects various species of water birds of high biological value, namely the Black-browed Albatross, Steam Ducks, and Gray Gaviotas.

As stunning rock formations and mountain peaks loom in the background, you’ll cruise on to Sea Wolves Island, a stone outcrop home to a huge number of seals and sea lions, which can be seen hunting, playing, and resting.

While temperatures can be low during this quest, the catamaran is equipped with an enclosed area for your viewing pleasure. Book this Tierra del Fuego tour now for your next great shore excursion.

January 6: Punta del Este, Uruguay
Bike Punta del Este
$65.00

Take this Uruguay, Punta del Este guided bicycle tour and you’ll agree: few places can boast the beauty, natural and man-made, that Punta del Este offers.

Few resorts in South America rival Punta del Este for glamour. It might be geographically located in Uruguay, but it’s where the glitterati and elite of Buenos Aires make their homes for the summer. This beautiful Uruguayan resort area has become an exquisite place to see.

On this tour you will enjoy a bike ride on flat areas that demand a low level of strength. Your guide will provide you with all the necessary equipment, including reflective vests for your safety. You will be guided along safe paths and visit Mansa Beach, where sea lions can be observed. You will also see the city’s symbolic lighthouse, which dates back to 1860. The lighthouse is 147 feet tall, and the crystal panels that are part of its illumination system were brought from France.

Another highlight of the tour is the church Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria, a beautiful sky-blue and white Victorian structure.

Other points of interest are: the Four Seas point, Punta Salina (where the famous and only navy battle of River Plate between German and British ships took place), English beach, Emir beach, Punta Vapor (where the first mass was held in 1516), and the famous monument known as “The Hand.”

Guests will be able to stop along the way at every attraction to allow for photo opportunities. Punta del Este’s charm, nature, well-kept gardens adorned with colorful flowers, and the Atlantic Ocean’s beautiful sandy beaches make it a perfect location for a smooth bike ride.

Please Note: This tour operates rain or shine; except in cases where a yellow alert/thunderstorm warning is issued.

January 6: Punta del Este, Uruguay
Punta del Este Highlights
$55.00

The picturesque seaside city of Punta del Este in the Maldonado Department is fast becoming the Monte Carlo of South America.

Make like a local as you experience every corner of this majestic area, from its sandy beaches to busy city streets. Head to the 45-meter-high lighthouse, built in 1860 with volcanic sand from Rome.

Stroll past upscale shops and restaurants along the famed Avenida Gorlero and peruse the local handicrafts while at Plaza Artigas.

You’ll go across La Barra Bridge and experience the sensation of driving over the famous wave-like bridges. Created by Leonel Viera in 1965, this bridge served to expand the area of Punta del Este and helped pioneer the design of concrete segment bridges of this kind.

On this tour you will also see gleaming yachts at the Port, Brava Beach coast, stunning homes of the rich and famous in residential districts as San Rafael, the romantic Hotel L-Auberge, Beverly Hills, the iconic Casa Pueblo and Carlos Paez Vilaro Museum, and much more including the iconic La Mano sculpture. Throughout your journey your guide will share the history and culture of this popular tourist destination.

January 7: Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires Highlights With Transfer (booked through NCL)
$119

This tour is a great option for those with flights after 5:00 – 6:00 p.m. who wish to gain a greater understanding of Argentina’s wonderfully cultured capital by visiting a range of neighborhoods and landmarks before being dropped at the airport. 

After departing from the pier, you will head to Recoleta & Palermo to drive around these unique residential neighborhoods while learning about the Porteño’s lifestyle from your local guide. 

Next, you will visit Plaza de Mayo, arguably the country’s most famous square. Its name refers to the revolution that began nearby in May 1810 and led to Argentina’s independence from Spain. Some of the surrounding buildings are just as celebrated, including the salmon-colored executive mansion known as Casa Rosado. You will also see the glorious Metropolitan Cathedral, which is adorned with frescoes and elaborate artwork. 

Then, it’s on to the neighborhood La Boca where you can stroll along El Caminito, a cobblestone street full of expressive brightly colored buildings. La Boca, meaning “the mouth,” was the site of city’s first harbor at the mouth of the Riachuelo River. Some claim the tango originated here around 1870, and tango dancers are often seen performing impromptu in the streets. 

Finally, a traditional Argentine lunch at the Puerto Madero waterfront awaits you, after which you will transfer to the Ezeiza International Airport for your flight home. Arrival at the airport is approximately 2:00 p.m. 

And with that…

Class Dismissed!

Homework (10 points): Ask any questions you have about this itinerary or the Norwegian Star to the comments. OR share any experience you have with either.

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