Continuing my lecture series, “Best Road Trips from Seattle,” today’s destination, as the largest ski resort in Washington State, is better known for packed powder and black runs than hiking trails and disc golf, but you’d be remiss if you didn’t consider a short road trip to Crystal Mountain from Seattle in the summer.
I grew up on the outskirts of Salt Lake City at the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon. My neighborhood was tucked in like a bug, snug and protected with the Wasatch Mountains to the north and south, approximating two towering sides of a cradle. To the east was a narrow, winding canyon road beckoning a young Prof. Cruise to escape from a place that both felt like home, for it was safe and familiar, but also too homogeneous and stifling as I gazed out my second floor window at the vast wilderness and great big messy world beyond it.
In the winter, when we measured the snow in feet, not inches, it wasn’t uncommon to startle awake to thundering blasts as explosives were detonated to artificially trigger avalanches at the two world renowned ski resorts further up the canyon: Alta and Snowbird. For skiers, the blasts were like a rallying cry and I would watch from my school bus as hundreds of SUV’s and chained tires lined up waiting for the road to open following a blizzard, their eager occupants racing to the famous Utah powder.
And while I have two distinct and wonderful memories of my now deceased dad, who along with my brother was an expert level skier, patiently trying to teach me, I never quite mastered the snowplow or overcame my fear of exiting the lift: “get off, get off, get off!” the operator would shout as I nearly went winding around and back down the mountain.
Instead, my best memories of Alta and Snowbird took place in the summer when the landscape changed from a single shade of white covering the ground and trees and sloped roofs as if a baker in the sky had sifted over it a thick layer of powdered sugar to conceal the dullness of winter, to so technicolor and alive it made Joseph’s dream coat appear bland and lethargic by comparison.
Aspen trees with their millions of tiny leaves like soft chimes in the wind, blooming wild flowers blanketing the Albion Basin, clean crisp air offering relief from scorching summer temperatures and the thick layer of pollution seen hovering above downtown Salt Lake City.
I used to have this dream as a kid where everyone mysteriously vanished from the earth except for me. Instead of feeling scared, rejected by heaven, I relished in the opportunity to snoop around palatial houses perched on hills overlooking ancient abandoned cities.
The ski resorts felt a bit like that in the summer. Quiet and peaceful, with shops and restaurants and lodges deserted but for a few. Almost like we weren’t supposed to be there. With tall lockers and rubber flooring and motionless lifts suspended above us offering a hint as to the former purpose of this place. And with an occasional festival to liven things up. So many memories:
An impromptu and grueling hike to the top of the tram at Snowbird with my elderly great-aunt Vera, because a passerby told us that if you made it to the top, you could ride down for free: “it doesn’t look that far.” Meanwhile, five hours later we were encouraging each other with, “an almond if you take just five more steps.”
We barely made it to the top before dusk and had mere minutes to relish in our accomplishment and our solitary and spectacular surroundings before catching the last ride down for the day, saving us an unplanned and unsheltered camping trip on the side of the mountain, our loved ones frantic with worry and organizing a search.
After our adventures in the mountains, Vera would drive all the way down the canyon in first gear, accumulating a long line of honking cars behind her, trying to extend the life of her brakes.
I remember how terrified my New York born and raised husband, Mr. Cruise, was the first, and only, time I drove him up the canyon, with sharp turns and steep drops to a raging creek below. How, upon stepping out of the car at Alta, he swore he had legit elevation sickness and not acrophobia and insisted we go home and how I kept imploring him to, “open your eyes, you’re missing everything!”
Later in the summer and into early fall there was black forest cake and polka music and the smell of beer at Oktoberfest.
And hoping the older gentlemen in lederhosen on their 8th stein of schwarzbier and dancing with equal parts enthusiasm and unsteadiness weren’t planning on driving down the canyon. Because that was a truly terrifying thought.
This long trip down memory lane, or in this case, Little Cottonwood Road, brings us to my three reasons to visit ski resorts in the summer and why I recommend a road trip from Seattle (or wherever you store your stuff while you’re cruising) to Crystal Mountain:
While I worried about my petite Chevy Sonic in the vast, nearly empty parking lot after she used every last horse of her power, “you can do it girl!” to deliver us safely to our mountain destination, “I hope she doesn’t get lonely,” I relished in the peace and quiet of the place. Solitude is rare and appreciated when you live where we do, in the heart of downtown Seattle where hustle and bustle drown out chirping birds and whistling wind.
At Crystal Mountain you’ll hear the crunch of leaves under your feet making for a frustrating game of hide-and-seek, “found you!” But unless you’re single and looking to mingle, “hike this trail often?” you’ll enjoy having the whole place practically to yourself.
At Crystal Mountain, beautiful scenery will engulf you. Like the early morning fog that always cleared just in time, as if someone was pulling up a curtain to start the show: “I present to you, Nature, in all her glory!” A highlight, however, is the summit, easily reached via the Mt. Rainier Gondola, offering unrivaled views of Mt. Rainier.
And while this fun ride’s namesake is the star of the show, on a clear day you can also gaze upon Mt. Adams, Mt. St. Helens, and the Cascades while relaxing in one of the slingback chairs positioned in front of the Summit House Restaurant. Or hyperventilate like I did, due to the steep drop off located mere feet in front of my clumsy and unleashed 5 year-old. A 5 year-old who, not long before this, while being carefully supervised by a gaggle of church ladies paid to keep him alive while I worked, fell off a similar chair onto carpeted ground and broke his collar bone: “let’s hit the overlook and take some pictures, buddy!”
This backdrop is so perfect it’s almost tacky – like a JCPenny Portrait Studio special. One would hope I’d wear more tasteful sunglasses and less fringe on my shorts for a professional photo shoot though. And I’m pretty sure H’s pants are on backwards.
I know what my mother (hi mom!) is thinking right now, “that is exactly what they’d wear to a professional photo shoot.” And she’s probably right. “Smile” the photographer would implore while mumbling under his breath, “not that it’s going to help much.”
While nothing gets the adrenaline up quite like trying to stay upright on a pair of skinny waxed boards – painted bright colors so as to assist in locating your body because skis aren’t equipped with brakes – as you’re gaining momentum and trying not to think “this is how Sonny Bono died,” there are lots of exciting activities at Crystal Mountain in the summer too.
A ride on the Mt. Rainier Gondola is a must if you have kids or if you still enjoy terrorizing your younger sister even though you’re both in your 50’s, “I hope one of those tiny cables doesn’t snap, SNAP!” Each car seats up to eight people, and operators will combine multiple parties into one car if there’s a line, so be prepared for just over 10 minutes of discomfort if you ate camp fire beans the night before (learned that one the Prof. Cruise/hard way).
But the views will almost distract you from the fermenting fiber in your large intestine and the kid making fish faces on the glass who turns out to be yours, but whom you’re pretending not to know: “kids these days!” And go ahead and blame the gas on him if you simply can’t hold it any longer: “there are potties at the top, Nemo!”
| Tickets | Early Summer 5/24-5/27, 5/31-6/2, 6/7-6/9 & 6/14-6/16 | Mon-Fri 6/21-9/13 | Sat, Sun & Holiday 6/22-9/15 |
| Adult 23-69 | $25 | $25 | $29 |
| Youth 13-22 | $15 | $15 | $19 |
| Child 5-12 | $10 | $10 | $14 |
| 4 & Under | Free | Free | Free |
| Senior 70+ | $20 | $20 | $24 |
Extra Credit Pro Tip: Go here to book tickets online and save!
While there is a hiking trail to the top of the gondola, don’t do as Vera and I did and take your life into the hands of some random dude we judged as credible due to the number of patches he had on his backpack who tells you: “if you hike all the way to the top, you can ride down on the gondola for free.”
Because in this case, he’s either innocently mistaken or running a scam where he meets you halfway down the trail – after you were turned around at the top for want of a $12 “download ticket” you should have purchased at the window at the base of the mountain – with flashlights, water, and protein bars at a 900% markup, “credit cards gladly accepted.”
If you make this mistake, instead of heading back down the trail, I suggest you outsmart “Patches” by stunt leaping onto a gondola car just clear of the loading area then sprinting toward the Pacific Crest Trail located above the Alpine Inn where you can evade capture by hiking all the way to Canada if you head north or Mexico if you head south.
Or maybe just choose a different trail altogether. Go here for trail options, a map, and information about guided hikes at Crystal Mountain.
Extra Credit Pro Tip: Leashed dogs are allowed on trails as well as in gondola cars at Crystal Mountain.
Crystal Mountain offer some of the best mountain biking in the state. Bikes can be rented at the resort or bring your own.
Rental rates are as follows (includes helmet):
Because training wheels, while wicked cool, tend to spin out on uneven surfaces, we stuck to road biking on our visit.
If you’re not sure what disk golf is, go ask your nerdiest friend. “Prof. Cruise, what’s disk golf?” Thanks for asking. Wait!
With rules and scoring very similar to traditional golf, disk golf involves throwing a frisbee at a target and trying to hit it with the least number of throws. Crystal Mountain has a total of 30 holes (or targets) spread over two courses, one lower course and one course at the summit. Frisbees are available to borrow or purchase. Or risk losing your lucky one over the side of the mountain. But don’t say I didn’t warn you. See if you can beat my best score of +378.
While I’m pretty sure winning the egg balancing contest at Horse Camp 30 years ago qualifies me as an expert equestrian, my travel companion was skittish to take the reins and concerned about his civic responsibilities: “we’d need a 30 gallon Hefty to bag up that poop!” So we skipped horseback riding on our first visit to Crystal Mountain. But if you’re interested, more information can be found here.
Don’t book your trip to Crystal Mountain over these dates if you want to avoid crowds, but if you’re a runner or a wine lover (I don’t suggest a combination of both) check out these two events taking place in June and July.
This casual cafe offers sandwiches, bowls, salads and ice cream and outdoor patio seating around a giant fire pit. Go here for 2019 summer hours and the menu.
The Summit House Restaurant, with an outdoor patio overlooking Mt. Rainier and servers from all over the world (so a good spot to treat your cruise withdrawal), is our favorite place to eat at Crystal Mountain. “H” recommends the buttered “extra long” noodles with cheese. Go ahead, cast manners aside and stretch one of those bad boys out and see for yourself!
Here’s the menu:
The Alpine Inn Restaurant is located in the Alpine Inn. Fancy that! And while we only visited to cash in meal tickets – included with our room at the Quicksilver Lodge across the street – for a dine-in buffet breakfast and pastries and fruit we wrapped in napkins for dinner back at the room later, it’s a lovely spot and a nice option for lunch or dinner if you’re not a fan of pocket bagels. Summer hours and menus can be found here.
While the interior decor is dated, the exteriors of the three buildings that encompass the Crystal Mountain Hotels will remind you of Bavarian pensions nestled in the German Alps. Located just a five minute walk from the base of the resort, we were very happy with our two night stay at the Quicksilver Lodge. You can check pricing and book here. This is also a great alternative place to stay if everything at Mt. Rainier is full.
While we tacked our two days at Crystal Mountain onto the end of a longer trip to Mt. Rainier, at just 2 hours from Seattle, this would be worth a weekend trip all on its own. Come for solitude, scenery, and summer fun!
And with that…
Class Dismissed.
*Check out my other “Road Trips From Seattle” posts here. And don’t forget to subscribe to the blog (scroll up to the top right if on a computer or keep scrolling down if on a mobile device) and follow me on social media:
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